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Marrakech

Books

Yves St Laurent

Alice Rawsthorne

It was the Graham Nash song Marrakech Express that took me to Marrakech, but it was Yves St Laurent which made the more lasting impact. Just before going out there, I read an article in a Newspaper on the opening of the new museum dedicated to the famous designer, and having then visited La Jardin Majorelle, I became determined to find out a bit more about him and the impact that Marrakech had upon him. I should say that my interest in fashion extends as far as “The Devil wears Prada” and not much further.

I picked up Alice Rawsthorne’s biography, written in 1996, so long before his death in June 2008; It is a good solid read, particularly good on the early years when St Laurent established himself as one of the most brilliant and celebrated designer. Equally interesting is the business side in that early period. I felt that in the latter part of the book, Yves St Laurent the designer is subsumed by Yves St Laurent the brand. Perhaps that reflects the reality of the situation.

St Laurent was inspired by the colours of Marrakech. He said that he discovered colour in Marrakech. It is easy to see why he was so inspired. It is therefore a little disappointing that the photographs in the book are in black and white rather than in colour. It is hard to visualise the extraordinary use of colour St Laurent employed from black and white pictures.  St Laurent would return to Marrakech every year to design. He drew his inspiration from the colours and the Berber people. Walking around the Jardin Majorelle, it is again so easy to see where he found the peace and calm to work.

 

Travel

All Riads lead to Marrakech

Marrakech

Marrakech is one of those places I’ve wanted to visit for almost as long as I can remember, and yet I’ve waited until my 5th decade to do so. It was the Graham Nash song, Marrakech Express, that first ignited my interest. True it has one of those irritating jangly rhythms that get under your skin. True, the song was described by Iggy Pop in the early 1970s as one of the worst songs ever written. But in spite of all of that, I have always wanted to go, attracted by the hippy vibe, and as the song goes, to blow the cobwebs from my mind. More recently I was reading an article about the Jardin Majorelles, the house formerly owned by the designer, Yves St Laurent, and I thought,”Right, that’s it, let’s go.” Two weeks later, I was on an Easy Jet flight.

 

Accommodation

Choosing accommodation was relatively easy. I knew that I wanted to stay in a traditional Riad in order to fully savour the Moroccan experience, and eventually landed on the Riad Calista, at the bottom end of the Kasbah. Basic, clean, friendly, it had all that I needed and was reasonably cheap. The Manageress was incredibly helpful and went out of her way to ensure that I was comfortable and enjoying myself in Marrakech.

The Market

On my first day I had decided to walk to the Jardin Majorelles, which was perhaps a mistake for two reasons, firstly because it was hot, and secondly because my route took me through the souks and Medina. I managed to avoid eye contact with sellers and traders only for a few minutes, and then fell for one of the oldest tricks in the book. “Hi, English? Can you help me translate something?” And at that, I was in his shop, his very impressive shop packed full of things that I did not want to buy. I admired his fabulous carpets, but in the end managed to end up buying a pair of Ali Baba pointed slippers, and an elaborate handbag, before escaping into the perfume market. I emerged from there stinking of amber, and jasmine, and God only knows what else, but fortunately with wallet still intact, and into the hands of the silk dyers. I had no chance here, as they showed me the colour of the dyes, and their fabulous scarves or pashminas. I thought that they would make good presents to take home, so I bought four.

Tip : When going to Marrakech, go with an empty suitcase: it won’t be empty on the return journey

Jardin Majorelles

I finally managed to get to the Gardens. There was a small queue outside, but I paid my 180 dirhams and entered. As you enter, you immediately encounter a small fountain in a courtyard, and one is hit by the stillness. Paths lined with exotic plants and bamboos quietly lead you to a house in the most striking and extraordinary shade of cobalt blue

I had read that blue is considered to be a calming colour in the psychology of colours, and I have to say that, in spite of the electric colour here striking you between the eyes, the overall effect of the house and gardens is one of great calm. One can easily see understand why Yves St Laurent found that this was a perfect place in which to find the inspiration for his designs.

Outside the house are lamp posts with pink banners and a quote from YSL,

“When I discovered Marrakech, it came as an enormous shock. Especially its colours. The city opened my eyes to colour”

And it is colour that really strikes you about this house and garden.

The House contains a museum dedicated to the Berber way of life. Having come from the market, it was noticeable how little had changed in Berber art and style over several hundred of years. What was in the Museum could equally well have been found in the souks. And why change what is already perfect?

 

This is the first of a small series of posts about my time in Marrakech.

Should you want details of the trips I can organise for you through my ABTA regulated travel agency

Anthony Kingsley@ Not Just Travel, please email me at anthony.kingsley@notjusttravel.com