Monthly Archives

October 2018

London

Afternoon Tea at the Ritz

Tea at the Ritz

Introduction

Tea at the Ritz is a blog post I wrote for https://www.yourlondonaffair.com, a site dedicated to bringing US visitors to London. The purpose of the post is to ensure that our US visitors are aware of that famous institution, Afternoon Tea at the Ritz, and to introduce a little history behind this iconic hotel.

One of the most famous hotels, if not the most famous hotel in London is the Ritz in Piccadilly, adjacent  to the Royal Park, Green Park. It was opened in May 1906 by Cesar Ritz, who had opened the Paris Ritz some 8 years earlier, and took a little while to become popular. It is of course immortalised in the song by Irving Berlin, “Puttin’ on the Ritz”, which was written in May 1927, and was inspired by the slang expression “putting on the ritz” meaning to dress fashionably. Its adoption by  the fashionable elite did not really occur until well after the First World War. Noel Coward would frequently dine there during the 1920s and 1030s. Barbara Cartland famously summarised the London hotel scene of the 1920s thus : “The Ritz stood for stuffiness and standards, the Carlton was for businessman, the Savoy was rather fast, some other ones were frankly scandalous, and the Berkeley, where you could dance all night for ten shillings, was for the young”

The Ritz 1906

 

It became particularly popular with various members of European royal families during the Second World War, including housing King Zog of Albania and his family. The hotel was damaged 9 times during the War, but dining was only interrupted on two occasions. The basement bar was reserved for gay and lesbian guests while the upstairs bar was used by heterosexual guests. It was observed that the Ritz as too chic, too popular and above all, too queer for the authorities. Although homosexuality was still illegal at the time, presumably the authorities had too much to deal with in the War to spend too much time worrying about what was going on in the bars of the Ritz.

After the War and up to the 1960s, the hotel retained its appeal to the rich and fashionable. Film stars would regularly stay there, including Rita Hayworth and Tallulah Bankhead. But in the 1960s London began to change, as the Swinging 60s took hold. Standards of dress and behaviour began to decline, the internal décor and sense of luxury started to become shabby. Celebrities would still hold parties there, including the Rolling Stones, although Mick Jagger was once denied entry for failing to wear a jacket and tie. The Prime Ministers of the period, Harold Wilson and Edward Heath, would frequently dine there, Heath always reserving table 29.

The decline continued into the 1990s when the ownership changed hands and £40 million was invested into raising up standards. It’s return to Royal favour was marked in 1999 when Prince Charles and Camilla Parker Bowles made their first public appearance together. IN November 2002, Prince Charles celebrated his birthday at the Ritz with his mother and father both in attendance. It also received the Royal Warrant in the same year.

The hotel currently boasts  111 rooms running from Superior Queens and Kings rooms, up to Executive and Deluxe Kings. There are a range of eye catching suites from the Junior up to the Palatial Prince of Wales Suite, although the  latter come in with a price tag to match. The signature suites include use of the Hotel’s Rolls Royce to use a shuttle to the airport, which is a nice touch.

the ritz

The restaurant is Michelin starred, and has been a favourite dining haunt for English Prime Ministers, the Royal Family, international film stars and celebrities. They have even made their “cook book” available for purchase.

Tea at the Ritz

But perhaps the jewel in their crown is the Palm Court, where you can have the most celebrated of occasions, Tea at the Ritz.  Although this is comparatively pricy, starting at about £60 per head, it is such an iconic experience that it is worth every cent! And in spite of its price tag, it is booked up solidly for weeks, if not months in advance. Anyone can book, but it is important to note that, even in these times of falling sartorial standards, smart dress is required, which for men includes a tie. Jeans – even designer jeans, are not permitted.

tea at the ritz

 

 

 

Travel

Wanderlust Magazine and Tour Guides

Anthony's Travels

Wanderlust Magazine

I recently had the pleasure of being invited to the Wanderlust Magazine Tour Guide Awards 2018. This was a particularly special award ceremony for Wanderlust Magazine as it was their 25thAnniversary.

Dreamt up 25 years ago by husband and wife team Paul Harrison and Lyn Hughes on a trip to Ecuador, the magazine has gone from humble beginnings to one of the most important travel magazines on the shelf today. Lyn recounted how she and Paul were travelling to Ecuador and, fed up with the lack of travel magazines, started sketching ideas out for a magazine on the back of sick bags and using a biro borrowed from an air hostess. The name was established almost immediately with Paul commenting “Once you’ve got wanderlust in your blood, you’ve got it for life.”  Despite being told by WH Smith that there was no market for a travel magazine, they persisted and released the magazine with a print run of 5000. 5 months later in April 1994, the magazine is sold out and can now be found on the shelves of WHY Smith, and it is onwards and upwards. It is also available online https://www.wanderlust.co.uk

Sadly Paul contracted cancer in 2001, and battled this dreadful disease until 2004 with not a grumble or complaint when he passed away. Gifted photographer and writer, he was a natural traveller, with boundless enthusiasm and curiosity, and a passion for communicating his enjoyment of travel to others. He was always quick to credit the importance of travel guides for showing the real spirit of a place. It was therefore a fitting tribute to him for Wanderlust Magazine to commence an annual award to commemorate the best tour guides from around the world.

Bill Bryson and travel writing

The award ceremony was held at the Royal Geographical Society and hosted by photographer and guide Paul Goldstein. Another highlight of the evening was a discussion between the founder, Lyn Hughes and the well known travel writer Bill Bryson. I have to confess that, although I have been well and truly bitten by the Wanderlust Bug, I find most travel writers fairly dull, and rarely do I feel encouraged to visit anywhere these writers recommend. . I do make an exception of Bill Bryson. I find his almost Britishly dry sense of humour very similar to mine, and he writes engagingly well on most places.

The Nominees

We then moved onto an interview with the 10 guides shortlisted. They were all very different, from a wildlife expert in the Galapagos to a leader of African Safaris, from Devon to the far East, but the one common denominator was their passion for their craft, for ensuring that all of their visitors experienced the unique characteristics of the place that they were visiting. Equally as important as thee visitors are the indigenous people. They must also benefit from the tourism coming to their region. When one looks at the sometimes damaging effects that tourism can have, from over-occupancy in Barcelona and Venice to the environmental damage to places like the Phi Phi Islands in Thailand and Boracay in the Philippines, it is so refreshing to see that the local impact is treated with such respect. One of the slogans of one the award winning companies is that “we love changing lives”, and the lives being changed are both tourist and local.

 

One of the presenters commented that, in this day of online reviews, it is so common for a bad review to be written but so rare for credit to be given where it is due for an exceptional experience. Each of those nominated had been so because of the exceptional service that they had given, even to the most difficult and bloody minded of guests. It was so wonderful to see people driven by passion, dedication and a unique sense of their duty to their clients.

The Winner

The winner was announced as Julie Gabbott, who has led trips all over the world. The judges commented on her humour, empathy with her all of her clients and her organisational skills. She leaves behind her a trail of happiness wherever she goes.

I have yet to  go one a holiday with a tour guide, but after this evening, it has certainly rocketed to the top of my wish list, probably to India. This is without a doubt the best way to fully experience the local way of life, to really connect with another place and people.

Bravo the tour guides and Bravo to Wanderlust Magazine for creating such a special award.